Q: What can we do about the ugly stain job on our deck? The surface is blotchy, even though professionals finished the deck with their recommended product. We’re planning to list the house for sale in a few weeks. Can we apply a solid stain over the ugly stain? We used a solid over a second-floor deck in the past and it looks good.
A: Yes, I’d apply a solid stain over what you have now. If your deck is old and the wood has cracks, I’d recommend an elastomeric coating. These have done well in my tests. Go ahead and use what you did earlier on the other decks to keep the look consistent. I don’t think your house will seem any less appealing to prospective buyers with a solid stain rather than a transparent deck finish, especially considering how it looks now.
Replacing a shed floor
Q: What options do you recommend for replacing an existing shed floor?
A: If the floor is currently bare ground, you could cover the space with patio slabs, paving bricks or even wood. Dig some 4x4s into the dirt a couple of feet apart, level the top surfaces of these 4x4s so they’re in the same plane, then fasten foundation-grade 2x6s on top with stainless steel deck screws. You’ll get a really solid, rot-proof floor with the comfort of wood under foot. Foundation-grade pressure treated wood never rots.
If the shed floor is raised on joists, remove the old floor (it’s probably plywood or waferboard), assess the condition of the joists, then apply fresh 5/8” or 3/4” pressure treated plywood on top. If the joists are bad, you could raise the shed, then put it on a new floor frame built ahead of time. That’s the nice thing about sheds. They’re small enough that you can raise and move them.
Accurate measurements for woodworking
Q: How can I measure accurately for woodworking projects? I’m 77 years old, a recent widow, and a total beginner to woodworking. Somehow, I never get measuring right. If I can get it close to 1/4” I am doing really well.
A: Measuring is a tricky part of learning to work well with wood, and I can offer a few tips. The first thing to do is limit the amount of numerical measuring you need to do in the first place. For example, instead of getting out a tape measure or ruler to determine how long a piece of wood needs to be to fit in a specific spot, simply hold up the wood in question, then mark the wood from the edges of the opening or space it will occupy. I like to use a utility knife for marking. By eliminating numbers you not only improve accuracy, but you also speed your progress.
In the same way, extending and locking a tape measure to determine the size of some internal space is a great tactic. You place the tip of the blade against one side of the opening, then extend the tape so the body touches the other side. Lock the blade in this position, then use the extended-and-locked tape to mark your piece of wood.
Sometimes, you really do need to use numbers to measure, and at those times I’d recommend three things. First, take the trouble to shed some good light on the work area. Second, use a high-quality ruler or tape measure, something with graduations that are clear. I find my six-inch steel ruler perfect for measuring small distances. And third, use a knife to mark your wood, not a pencil. A knife cut – even a shallow one – is easy to see and very clear.
— Steve Maxwell always has woodworking projects on the go in his Manitoulin Island, Ontario workshop. Visit Steve’s website for articles and videos on all kinds of hands-on skills and techniques.
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